GRAINLINE HADLEY TOP - FIRST EXPERIENCE

After my experience with the Willow Tank and Dress, I was anxious to try the Hadley Top.  It has two variations, sleeveless and long sleeve, jewel neck or V neck. The sleeveless top has facings for the armhole, neckline, and hem. One back version has an inverted pleat design element. The bottom is curved so it is shorter in the front than in the back.

I did my first draft as a wearable muslin using some very lightweight lawn which, although I loved, has sat idle on my shelf for a couple of years.  I chose the sleeveless, V neck version.  Many people had commented that the neckline was low, so I went ahead and raised it by 3/4 inch.  Because of the pattern design, I was unsure how to raise it. I contacted Grainline, but wasn't really happy with their answer, so this is how I did it.

As you can see, there is a notch for the seam allowance, which threw me a bit. I drew a line perpendicular to the grainline. Then I cut across this horizontal line, up the grainline, and stopped just short of the shoulder, leaving the piece attached. I then took the neckline section, which was slightly detached, and pinched up the required amount (3/4  " in my case). I then moved it back in and taped it, and inserted pattern paper to fill in the 3/4 " I pinched out above.  I did this so that the shoulder would stay intact and the V would be undisturbed since it has a very nice curved shape, see below.

But, once I was finished, the neckline is really the only thing I loved. I used the interfaced armhole facings as directed. But, with such very thin fabric, a 2" interfaced facing was overkill and just made the armhole very 'bunchy'. I probably should have anticipated that. So, in the future with a fabric like this, I would use simple self made binding.

My next disappointment is that the dart seemed to fall too high which I thought was odd because it did not on the Willow Tank. I haven't yet compared patterns, but I don't know why that would be the case with the same pattern company.  Also, the front really ends up quite short, not a  look that is good on me.  So this one will be strictly a learning experience before it is tossed.

Would I make it again? Yes, I think it has some nice possibilities. I would take advantage of its structural elements by using a heavier fabric. I would add length all around so the front doesn't end so short. I would also go up to a size 12 even though the finished measurements are larger than the Willow Tank. It just looked skimpy.

By the way, if you are a V neck fan, as I am, another wonderful V neck pattern is the shell in Loes Hinse' Sweater Set. Scroll down to look at the shell. Really lovely - also center seam, like the Hadley. It does not use facings, just gets turned under. And, even though it it made for a knit, I have made it in a woven, and it works just fine.

Some days are just learning experiences. Unfortunately, I wanted another sleeveless top for my trip!

Grainline Studio Willow Dress and Shell

I had said in an earlier post that I had too much stuff! However, at the same time, I did not seem to have what I need! I am trying to be more judicious both in my pattern and fabric purchases. I also needed some things for vacation in Florida and my preference, in hot weather, is dresses and skirts. 

I have been intrigued by some of Grainline Studio's patterns. They are getting posted a lot on Pinterest and they are modern and breezy. I purchased their Willow pattern which has a Tank or Shell variation and a Dress.  It's available as a PDF download or a paper pattern and I chose the paper pattern.  This is a very roomy pattern so I cut a size I normally would not. So in addition to looking at the sizing, make sure you look at the finished measurements so you can judge just how much ease you want.  I absolutely love when pattern companies include finished measurements!

I cut a 10 on top based on my bust size and increased it to a 12 through the hips and straight through to the hem.  Normally, I would cut a much larger size through the hips. Oddly, even though I cut the appropriate bust size, I think there is a tiny wrinkle across the bust. It doesn't feel tight and there is plenty of room in the armhole, so in the future, I may just move the pattern a tiny bit away from the fold, rather than going up to a 12 which would be too big.  There are darts at the bust, and they seem to hit me in the right spot. 

 

This is a very simple pattern, front and back of the bodice and the skirt are cut on the fold. When they are attached, there is an interesting fold that is built in which, I think, adds a lot. I put four buttons across the fold. 

The neckline and armholes are finished with self made bias.  I find it a bit fiddly - I'd rather work with facings, but that's just me!

 

The fabric is by Robert Kaufman and is called Linen Malibu.  It is a cross-dye, 55% linen and 45% cotton, purchased from Portsmouth Fabric Company. 

After finishing the dress, I made the pattern in the tank/shell, using the same sizing and a very light weight lawn fabric.  All in all, I like the pattern. I'd like to try to get rid of the tiny wrinkle which looks, but doesn't feel like pulling.  Again, I may just try to give a bit more room in the top, without going up a whole size.

Slan