What I've Been Sewing

When I finished my last Liberty Shirt, I was undecided about whether or not to add buttons. I finally did add them and am really pleased with the result. They're from Sawyer Brook, which is about an hour's drive from me. They have truly expert women there who are happy to lend a hand. These weren't on display, but their button maven picked them out immediately, both because of their color and because the shape mirrored the shape of the colored specks in the shirt. I love it!


My next project was the Amy Butler Liverpool Shirt that seems to be getting so much buzz lately. It's an interesting pattern that can be altered to wear as a shirt, a tunic, a short dress, or a long dress. The sleeve also has options of short, elbow length, 3/4, and long. I made the tunic. I was unsure if the look was a bit too young for me, but figured that if I really didn't like it on, my daughter might take it off my hands. It has a nice shape, with not only a bust dart in front, but also two sets of vertical darts that cinch in the waist nicely. It has two vertical darts in back as well. I cut out the medium, but added an inch to the back (and therefore to the collar and collar stand) and also added a little along the side seams. I probably could have done an FBA, but I've not had a lot of experience there and was really feeling out of my league redrawing the vertical darts. It fits well, especially if the top button is left open with a tank top underneath. But, the bust on this pattern is definitely on the smaller side. Usually my problem area is hips, not bust, but I honestly didn't even need to add as much to the hips as I did.


I loved the way the placket came out. It really was a breeze and ends up looking very professional. I was less happy with my collar stand. Although it looks okay, the seam allowances didn't fold up into the stand at either end as nicely as I would have liked. I didn't think the drawings on the stand and collar installation were great for someone who's not done one before. I definitely need to work on that and have printed off a couple of tutorials to experiment with so I can perfect it. I saved my muslin, and had not put the collar on it, so I'll use that for practice.
















I also had some trouble edge stitching at the very point of the collar. I ripped out stitches a couple of times. Louise Cutting has a good tip which involves, pulling the opposing point under the back of the pressure foot when you approach the tip. The points are a mirror image and it provides the shim you need to keep your machine from struggling so much as it works the point. It's also a very pointy collar and mine aren't quite as crisp as I would want. Aren't we hard on ourselves?? Although my seams were sewn with a 2.0 stitch length, I did my top stitching in 3.0 and liked that on a light weight cotton. I often go longer on a top stitch, but this seems like the right look for this piece.

I really do like the look. It's a flattering shape and will be good to throw on over skinny jeans (lol) or capris for the summer.

Favorite Things

I tried my hand at one more straight skirt -- again using my books rather than the pattern directions which don't call for a lining. My mother had given me this beautiful charcoal wool fabric years ago and I had this wonderful burgundy print lining to liven it up. This time, I made it even shorter (by one inch) and I tapered the pattern by 1/2 inch toward the hem for a total of two inches. Sandra Betzina gives a guide that if your hips are 39" or less, pin out 1/2 inch at each side seam to reduce the hem circumference by 2 inches and if your hips are larger deepen the side seam allowance by 1 inch, reducing it by 4 inches. Of course, taper to the original seamline at the hips.

Interestingly, my daughter, who wears her skirts lower on her hips, thought the tapering made her look more hippy, while I liked it on me. So, it really is preference -- just play with your side seams before you stitch permanently, until you see what you like.

I repeated the French vent (Connie Long gives the most wonderful descriptions and instructions for a classic vent, a french vent, and a kick pleat with variations on inserting and finishing them off). I can't say enough good things about her book on lining. She is so clear in her description and illustrations. I bought the book used because, although it has been around for years, it has become quite pricey!

But, after sewing while reading through two skirts and a jacket, I wanted to go back to something that I've done before and love. And, something where the instructions in the pattern work so beautifully on both the inside and outside that there isn't any need to search elsewhere for techniques.

And, so, I've made yet another Liberty Shirt. This one I will definitely wear as a jacket, rather than shirt. I want to look for some very colorful glass buttons -- maybe even one in each of the color speckles! But, I'm leaving it plain for the moment. My sister is looking for a jacket to wear with a black dress for a wedding and I want her to try this out to see if she likes it before I enliven it with my taste in buttons.



The fabric has been in my stash for a little bit. It was a fabulous sale from Fabric Mart. The close up of the sleeve vent gives a better feel for what the fabric is like, in addition to a good picture of the sleeve vent itself. The fabric has everything -- metallic, eyelash specks of color, sheen! A great piece for black pants and sandals for the summer.

I've not tried the Ikina jacket yet, but do have some very loosely constructed poppy colored fabric that I might try it out on. I like 'artsy' clothing but find it easier to pull off in the summer when you don't need to pull a coat on and you can pair them with sandals and an ankle length pant. So easy.

Skirt! Suit!

Okay, so first of all I will apologize for being so excited about making a skirt! This skirt completes a suit along with the jacket in my most recent blog! Working on a basic skirt has been on my 'to do' list for a bit now. Sounds simple enough -- I just haven't done one before. I used Vogue 8523 for a basic straight skirt with vented back. The skirt measured 25 ", but I am only 5'3" and I thought a shorter skirt would be better with the jacket so I shortened by 2" on the pattern piece and then ended up cutting another inch away from the hem area. I think I still would have been better off with 1/2 to 1 inch shorter, but lesson learned. By the by, when you are taking as much as 4 inches off length, do you all take the whole of it off the lengthen/shorten line or do you divide it up over the skirt pattern?

I honestly didn't follow the pattern instructions exactly because I wanted to go to the experts to see how they did construction and I really learned a lot. First off, from Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing, I took several tips. When I sewed the back seam, I used tape on the seam near the vent to reinforce it. I then interfaced the inside of the vent. Lastly, I did not hem and then fold the facing. Instead I mitered the corner, shown below. Thank you Sandra!

The skirt did not call for a lining, but a lining was a must because my fabric frayed easily and had such a soft hand. It called instead for grograin ribbon as a facing, but I drafted facings. I then turned to Connie Long's book on linings and did a lining that went the full length of the skirt and attached to the facing at the top, not the bottom. When you do this you can eliminate interfacing the facing pieces. I also took her suggestion on how to attach the lining to the invisible zipper. Lastly, I used her idea of hemming the lining with lace tape rather than stitching it. I put the tape on, lining it up with the bottom of the lining hem. I then stitched the top of the tape and folded back the lining to the inside and did a zig zag stitch to secure it there. All are pictured below.

Am I happy with my skirt? It should be a smidge shorter. And, more importantly, I should have pegged it by about 1/2 inch as I sewed toward the hem for a much slimmer and updated look.

Did I learn a lot? You bet! I now can alter these pattern pieces and make a skirt that really looks good and fits well! So, yes, I am happy!

Project Completed

The last time I posted anything about my jacket, or even about sewing was November 21. Since then life has simply gotten in the way. First some room remodeling which rendered my sewing space unusable. Then personal things cropped up which made sewing seem irrelevant.

Last week I went into my sewing room for the first time in many weeks and didn't think I had the heart to finish the jacket. But when I tried to move on to something else, I realized that my slightly compulsive nature wouldn't let me start something new while something else sat unfinished. Besides, finishing something long abandoned sort of makes you feel you have some control over your life.

So, here is the jacket -- lining installed -- buttons on. I still have to tack the lining in some spots -- I hate those details!! I'm fairly happy with it since it involved drafting lining pieces which I only did one other time and which Connie Long and Sandra Betzina were a great help with. I also bagged a lining for the first time -- again with help from both of the above.


I have enough cloth to make a matching skirt which I may do. I also have to think about a dress for my niece's wedding on May 1. I bought the cloth months ago (below) and am determined to find an OOP Vogue Pattern (7361) so if anyone out there has any leads on this one, give a holler.

What a Difference a Year Makes

A year ago, I had never heard of Pattern Review and had never seen a sewing blog! I found my way back to sewing last Spring, happened along Pattern Review which I joined on June 15 of 2009, and a whole new world opened up to me. I live in an area without huge access to good fabric and/or sewing professionals so I was in awe of so many people sewing such wonderful things! And, by reading reviews, I came across all of your sewing blogs, which just blew my mind. Thank you all for sharing your time and your talent with a newbie!

I've been like a kid in a candy shop, which has been fun, but sometimes overwhelming. I didn't know where to start. I've bought fabric, patterns, notions, driven 5 hours round trip for sewing classes. I don't feel like I've accomplished a lot and I hope that 2010 is the year when I really begin to hone some skills and find what works and what doesn't work for me.

I'd like in 2010 to have some discipline so I don't get lost in all the information out there. I want to see it all, but limit myself to browsing time and establish some real sewing time.

In all of this I have some personal goals to keep in mind what is truly important. Losing my oldest sister not too long ago has been sobering. I don't always remember it, but keeping close to those people who are truly important is what matters most...never letting them be sad, hurt, frustrated, tired, lonely, if you can help. I hope in 2010 never to hurt anyone with what I say or don't say; what I do or don't do. Here is to a good year to all of us -- a year of accomplishment and growth and peace.

Family Cookbook

I'm suffering from sewing withdrawal! We're having some work done in the house which has made my sewing room and materials really difficult to get to.

And, I've been working on a family cookbook to give everyone for the holidays.

It was really a collaborative effort with recipes and pictures from all my siblings. It has been such fun choosing which pictures and what captions to put with them!

We included several generations from great-grandparents...
....to the future generation of cooks!


I think everyone will be happy with it. I hope so!

Sewing Workshop

I haven't abandoned my jacket -- I've just had no time since before Thanksgiving. I'm working on a family cookbook for the Holidays -- complete with photos on every page of family members from many generations. It's been great fun, but I would like my life back!

But, for those of you who don't subscribe to Sewing Workshop, I wanted to share the great new pattern that is just out. I've included the link and some photos. I love the lines of both the Tee and the pants. I just placed my order and can't wait to get it.