Carpet Bag

When I told my daughter I was making a carpet bag she asked if I would be able to pull a coat rack out of it. Alas, Mary Poppins, I am not, but I do like my new bag! I wanted to make up the pattern for work to show off both the pattern and fabric that is in the shop. The pattern is from Favorite Things and is simply called, The Carpet Bag. I made it out of quilt fabric, interfacing the lining with fusible fleece and the outer bag with a very light weight woven interfacing. I decided to embroider my initials on the bag which I did on the machine, hooped with tear away stabilizer.

I've wanted to work with suede for a while now and had sent away for a couple of pieces when Fabric Mart had one of their many wonderful 50% off sales. I loved working with the suede and used it for the handles, tabs for the shoulder straps, and a tab at the zipper end. I also made a change in how the handles were constructed. The pattern called for using a very thick cording and wrapping fabric around it and sewing with a zipper foot. Instead, I folded the handles over and sewed them and then inserted flexi-tube. If anyone wants more info on the flexi-tube, just let me know. Loved doing it that way!

For the buttons on the straps, I used vintage buttons I had in stock. For the tab that folds over, I used two buttons, a small vintage button sewn over a larger plastic button.

The bag has a zipper, an inside pocket, wooden dowels, and a shoulder strap in addition to the handles. And, it has lots and lots of room inside. Even though it didn't call for it, I did insert plastic canvas in the bottom to help hold its shape.

As you can see, the shoulder strap is attached with one end on the front and one on the back, with D rings. Although it looks cool, having one strap end on each side makes the bag sag a bit I thought. If I make it again, I would attach one on each side where the bag opens up. I think it will look more balanced that way.

All in all, it was fun to sew and I can't wait to use it!

Superb 'How To' Book

For those of you who love handbags, as I do, there is a superb reference book, The Bag Making Bible, by Lisa Lam. (Lisa also has a blog called U-Handbag). In her book, Lisa covers everything from choosing fabric and interfacings, to inserting zippers, snaps, and locks. Each chapter features a different bag, but additionally goes into great detail on subjects such as how to construct any kind of handle, pocket (who knew there were so many kinds!), gusset, grommet or snap.

There are so many sewing books out there that it's sometimes hard to know which ones have value for us at our particular skill level. This one is truly a gem. I can't think of any application that has been overlooked.

I've also ordered from Lisa's shop and the quality and turn around time was excellent.

Enjoy!

A Trio of Bags

Lately, I've felt like sewing bags and I keep buying fabric that I think will make a distinctive handbag. I have no idea why. I cannot possibly use all of these purses, so I will need to find something to do with them, but in the meantime.....here they are!

First up is a Loes Hinse design (Butterfly Bag) made with fabric purchased at Artee in Hudson, MA. Artee is primarily a home decorating store with a huge collection of silks. I go there to stalk their remnants on a regular basis. On this particular bag, I used quilted cotton for the interfacing. I just think it gives such a soft heft to the bag so it doesn't feel flimsy at all. It also calls for boning at the top edge which gives it a nice substantial curve.



Loes calls for one large pocket, divided in half, on the inside, but I love zippered pockets in my handbags so I added one on the other side. These are really easy to do, and add a lot to a handbag.

I also love hardware so I added the large button and matched bag feet to it. The outside button, the feet, and the magnetic snap are all an antiqued bronze. I like playing with all the extra touches that hopefully make it fun to look at.

Next up is the same fabric, but with a metal 'kiss' frame purchased from Tall Poppy and a carpet bag pattern downloaded from the same site. Note that if you download the pattern rather than having it mailed to you, you will need to enlarge it by 200% and piece it together. Not hard, but did want to caution you. Again, this bag is interfaced with quilted cotton. It is very easy to make -- definitely an afternoon project. The pattern doesn't call for an inside pocket, but I just can't make a purse without a pocket. Both bags have vintage buttons on the inside that I purchased at my favorite place. I buy them whenever something speaks to me and I just hold onto them until the perfect spot appears for them....and it always does!

Last, but not least, is The Metropolitan from Indygo Junction. The fabric and lining both came from On Board in Edgecomb, ME.

It calls for muslin interfacing, but I used a felled wool for a little more weight. It also does not call for pockets, but I put in a trademark zippered pocket. The band calls for timtex which gives it a great shape. Because I made my body and band with the same fabric, I cut a narrow band of lining to delineate the two areas and add some interest -- vintage glass buttons and a tassel finish it off!

I'm off to make another one - anyone need a handbag?

Katherine Tilton Jacket

Despite the difficult start, my jacket is finished. And, I was wrong about cutting the turquoise facing incorrectly as you can see! I'm fairly happy with it. I made the size 8 based on the ease despite the fact that I would normally wear a larger size. I'm only 5'3" and I did not take any length off, yet I wouldn't mind if it were a bit longer. I did take just an inch off the sleeve length.

It has an asymetrical shape with the right side crossing up higher than the left, and the back dips down a bit. It also has a funnel collar which I really like. Katharine Tilton shows this as both a solid color jacket and a silk-screened version. I would like to try the silk-screening at some point. I've not done it before but I think it would be interesting. What I did do to spice it up was face it with the turquoise dupioni. In addition to the front, I also faced the sleeves, rather than turning up the hem. The pattern calls for serging the seams, but I did french seams on the shoulders and side seams and I did a Hong Kong finish with the turquoise on the sleeve.



Lastly for the buttons, I took a black dupioni and the turquoise dupioni. I cut the turquoise into an interesting design, laid it on the black and did an applique stitch to attach it. I then made 3 covered buttons out of it to unify the black and turquoise in the jacket. Apologies for the fuzzy pics. I didn't do buttonholes, because I don't think I will like all 3 buttoned so I think I will do a simple black snap toward the bottom. I like it -- but it still seems as if it needs something to make it pop.

Easy project -- lots of room to experiment.

Playing With Scissors

Ever have a day when you just don't think you're competent enough to handle a pair of scissors?? Today is one of those days. My first project (after being starved for sewing the whole time I was in school) was Katherine Tilton's Vogue jacket pattern. Definitely a 'me' jacket. I like odd shapes, interesting structure, Asian influences.

And, I wanted to have fun with the facings since they would show through at the neckline. Lastly, I wanted to construct the facings the way I was taught in school this past semester -- no folding or serging the unfinished edge. Rather, sew the edges of your facing and interfacing together and turn to the inside for a beautiful finish.

Well, several things. The right side and the left side of the jacket are different pattern pieces, so that's your first clue you have to be careful. Second, they are so oddly shaped that twice (not once, mind you, but twice!) I finished off the edge that is sewn to the jacket, rather than the unfinished edge on the inside. Third, in school we were using non fusible interfacing, in fact silk organza. So, when I made either mistake I could have taken
it apart and started again. But, no-0-0.

So, my first facing was going to be this lovely shade of green.

.

My second was this beautiful turquise.

We are now on silver!

I think I may actually have done it right this time. (By the way, your iron will thank you if you remember that in order to do this technique, the fusible side of the interfacing is facing out when you sew it to the facing so that it will face in after you turn it!) I have sworn off fusible interfacing for the time being. I just ordered many yards of different interfacings from Fashion Sewing Supply -- none of them fusible:)

Pictures to follow if I ever finish though I'm beginning to think I shouldn't be allowed to play with scissors.

On a serious note, in this issue of Threads, there is a lovely article by Patricia Keay titled Slow Sewing. She talks about taking each project as an opportunity to strive for perfection, to learn a new skill, to add an unexpected detail -- to enjoy the process and not rush through for the result. I really enjoyed it and think you will too.

Another Chapter

I miss sewing! It's been quite an adventure these last three months. I signed up for 3 classes at the School of Fashion Design in Boston -- Clothing Construction I, Pattern Drafting I and Fashion Sketching I. In addition to 6 hours of class two days a week, my commute adds an another 6 hours into my week. And, did I mention the homework! I can honestly say I've done no sewing except my home work since September. Two more weeks and I'm out. I will definitely drop down to no more than one class next semester. I'm skittish of the commute in the winter -- it's bad enough the rest of the year. And, our son and his fiance are getting married Labor Day weekend, and I'd like to work on staying sane, and maybe even making a dress!

But it has been a wonderful ride -- so many things I didn't know, or didn't know as well as I should - basic skirt slopers and their endless variations, basic bodice slopers, underlining, hand stitching, how to render fabrics in a sketch, hand pricked lapped zippers, hong kong finishes that somehow always intimidated me, but that I now love. And, the inspiration of being in an edgy fashion environment every week -- it has definitely opened my eyes and expanded my horizons. I'm grateful for it all and will continue with it.

But, for the winter, I will be very happy to be back to my sewing and to reading all of your wonderful blogs!

Happy First Candle!

What I've Been Doing

Well, tomorrow is the big day -- first day of school! Wish me luck!

I am missing sewing clothes, but have been busy with accessories. I've committed to our Temple Craft Fair in December so am trying to build up a stash of silk accessories. I've finished about 15 eye glass cases to add to the jewelry rolls shown in previous posts. I've been experimenting with lots of different color combinations and stitches -- I especially like the candlewick stitches.


I'm now concentrating on handbags -- large and small -- example one is below. I didn't use a pattern, but rather let the fabric dictate what I did. It's a pale sea-foam moire with a black dupioni lining. I ended up doing a machine candlewick day lily in black thread on the front with a glass button center. The outside has an open pocket in the back and the inside has a 9 " wide zipped pocket. Handles are webbing.

I also found a wonderful, wonderful new place to spend my money! I love buttons and couldn't leave the ones below in the store. Sigh. Even with all of these, I cannot wait to go back and buy more. I'll use some on clothes, but many will go onto embroidered handbags as flower centers or abstract designs. The pictures really don't do them justice. They are vintage and they are well documented as to decade and material.

On a sad note, daughter Sarah's wonderful little hedgehog, Mrs. Tiggywinkle, left this world on Sunday. She had been sick for several months and Sarah took such good care of her. I saw her on Friday and fed her lots and lots of freeze dried mealy worms, so her last days were happy....

Saw the Richard Avedon exhibit at the MFA on Friday as well -- gorgeous fashion pictures!

I wish you all a New Year of Peace, Health, and Contentment.