Saturday, December 21, 2013

Creating A Skirt Pocket

I had made a muslin for my daughter in law for a short, mostly straight skirt, with a faced waistline.  The fit was good but when she wanted pockets, I went in search for a skirt pattern with slash pockets and no waistband.  I really didn't feel like re-inventing the wheel.  I was surprised when I couldn't find a pattern exactly the way I wanted it.  So, I began reading up on how to create this.  I also needed to be careful not to interfere with the darts in the skirt front.

Here is my first pattern draft with the pocket drawn out in red. 
  • I started my pocket 2" in from the side seam and, as you will see later in this post, I think it was not in far enough.  I ended the pocket about 6 inches down and then drew in a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
  • Once the beginning point for the pocket is established on the waist, I drew out another line on the waist an additional 2 inches in for the top of the pocket to attach and be sewn in to the facing.  
  • From that point, I drew a line down about 7 inches and began to shape the pocket bag, connecting it to the side seam, making sure to leave enough of the pocket bag to sew into the seam allowance.  And, I added plenty of notches to match everything up later.  

Once this was drawn out, I placed more tracing paper on top to create the actual pattern piece with the pocket edge.

Then the pocket facing and the pocket bag were traced over the original pattern.  The facing, of course, will be cut from the fashion fabric.  For the bag, since the fashion fabric is wool, I will use a lining fabric to cut down on bulk.  The pocket opening will have to be stabilized so it will not stretch out with use. 

Muslin made up.  As I mentioned earlier in the post, I had only drawn my pocket beginning 2 inches in from my side seam.  I think that is way too too close.  As you can see, I've drawn a line on the muslin an inch further in to see if that will be a better placement.  I think it will be.

Hopefully, this all works out.  I'll post more once the muslin has been fitted.


Sunday, December 15, 2013

When You Need A Little Gift

Something for the ladies I sew with on Tuesdays...

Linen sachets.  Machine embroidered with African Wire Work design from Hatched In Africa.  Black velvet loop for hanging.  Antique buttons from my collection (I do hate to part with my vintage buttons, but these ladies are special).  Sachets are stuffed with crushed balsam fir needles.  Sweet  and simple.


Friday, December 6, 2013

Vogue 1274, Lynn Mizono Shirt

I have always been drawn to very structured architectural shirts.  And so, when I saw this shirt by Lynn Mizono, I knew that I wanted to make it.  I could have chosen a much more interesting fabric, but I was contemplating doing it as a class and therefore chose something from the fabric store I work at part time.  It is a grey and white cotton, 44" wide.  I mention that because what I failed to notice on the pattern back was that it called for 60" fabric.  Since I made the XS it didn't end up being a problem, but the shirt is asymmetric and the pieces are large and front and back are cut separately.  If you are making the larger sizes, you will need the wide fabric.  Apologies for the pic -- my shirt is not sitting very nicely on my form which looks a bit busty here.  No one was home to take a shot of the shirt on me, but if I get a good one later, I'll post it.

I made View B.  I cut the XS because the few reviews that I read said that it ran very large, and also because it flairs so much at the bottom that there is no need to worry about hip size.  It is nicely constructed, calling for french seams throughout.  It also has 8 corners which could have looked very unprofessional if sewn straight across, so I took the extra time to miter all 8 of them and I am happy that I did.

 It is definitely different and, I am afraid, not one of my favorite shirts.  As you can see from the side view, I have tucked the 'wings' in.  The other option, as you can see from the technical drawings are to leave them out, bring them together in the back and button them.


Be aware if you want this effect, you need to be certain that you have cut a size large enough as this takes up a lot of the ease through the hips.  I am choosing to let it fall.

The sleeves also have this 'wing' which I chose to fold over and secure it with a button.  It's an interesting look that I like. 

Why don't I like it?  It is so large and architectural that it really has to be worn with leggings or very slim pants and a heel so as not to overwhelm me.  I also think that, though I am drawn to these designs, they may not be flattering on me.  I am only 5'3" and I think they are pulled off better by someone taller. I think my next effort will be something more tailored.

I have also noticed that many sewers are working on 'swaps' -- putting pieces together for a wardrobe in coordinating fabrics.  I really want to give this a try.  Sewing 'as I'm drawn to things' leaves a wardrobe that is a bit incomplete and I'd like to correct that.  So, I got it this shirt out of my system, and will wear it, but it will not be a 'go to' piece.  

For those who share my love of architectural design in clothing, there is an exhibit currently at the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA on Avant-Garde Japanese Fashion which has a lot of these looks.  


Sunday, December 1, 2013

And, Of Course, The Veil And Belt On The Bride

We had a beautiful wedding three weeks today and I just had to share. As I share, I'm trying to include at least a couple that show off her veil to its best advantage.

As I mentioned in my earlier post, Sarah did want a blusher, and she wanted the longest part of the veil to fall to her fingertip.  The blusher, when worn back, would fall to about her elbow.

I think we managed to make that happen.  (I especially love her fuchsia shoes!)

We also wanted the veil to be very sheer so that when the blusher was over her face, you could still see through it quite well.  Since we used silk tulle, it was no problem.

 The other advantage of silk tulle is that if falls so softly.  There is no stiffness to it at all.  It really is very lovely, though prohibitive unless you are making something this special.

You can get a good look at the alencon trim here. Eight yards were sewn on by hand, following the lines of the lace to secure it well and to hide my stitches.


Sarah hand beaded the belt she is wearing.  We tried several on when we bought the gown, but the prices were steep and now we know why!  She had never beaded before, but found a design she liked which we then transferred onto ivory silk via a light board.  And then the hours of hand beading began.  But it was well worth it!

And, the rest, well just sharing!  Bride and groom with me and Steve...

Bride and groom with Jeff's parents...

with Jeff's sister......

And with Sarah's brother and sister-in-law who were married two year's ago...

A wonderful day!