I have always been drawn to very structured architectural shirts. And so, when I saw this shirt by Lynn Mizono, I knew that I wanted to make it. I could have chosen a much more interesting fabric, but I was contemplating doing it as a class and therefore chose something from the fabric store I work at part time. It is a grey and white cotton, 44" wide. I mention that because what I failed to notice on the pattern back was that it called for 60" fabric. Since I made the XS it didn't end up being a problem, but the shirt is asymmetric and the pieces are large and front and back are cut separately. If you are making the larger sizes, you will need the wide fabric. Apologies for the pic -- my shirt is not sitting very nicely on my form which looks a bit busty here. No one was home to take a shot of the shirt on me, but if I get a good one later, I'll post it.
I made View B. I cut the XS because the few reviews that I read said that it ran very large, and also because it flairs so much at the bottom that there is no need to worry about hip size. It is nicely constructed, calling for french seams throughout. It also has 8 corners which could have looked very unprofessional if sewn straight across, so I took the extra time to miter all 8 of them and I am happy that I did.
It is definitely different and, I am afraid, not one of my favorite shirts. As you can see from the side view, I have tucked the 'wings' in. The other option, as you can see from the technical drawings are to leave them out, bring them together in the back and button them.
Be aware if you want this effect, you need to be certain that you have cut a size large enough as this takes up a lot of the ease through the hips. I am choosing to let it fall.
The sleeves also have this 'wing' which I chose to fold over and secure it with a button. It's an interesting look that I like.
Why don't I like it? It is so large and architectural that it really has to be worn with leggings or very slim pants and a heel so as not to overwhelm me. I also think that, though I am drawn to these designs, they may not be flattering on me. I am only 5'3" and I think they are pulled off better by someone taller. I think my next effort will be something more tailored.
I have also noticed that many sewers are working on 'swaps' -- putting pieces together for a wardrobe in coordinating fabrics. I really want to give this a try. Sewing 'as I'm drawn to things' leaves a wardrobe that is a bit incomplete and I'd like to correct that. So, I got it this shirt out of my system, and will wear it, but it will not be a 'go to' piece.
For those who share my love of architectural design in clothing, there is an exhibit currently at the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA on Avant-Garde Japanese Fashion which has a lot of these looks.
Slan
Fran, this pattern is also on my list. I have seen so many cute versions. Yours is beautiful! I love the subtle print, and I would guess that you will look marvelous in this.
ReplyDeleteThank you for your review of this pattern. I think it looks lovely. I purchased it also because I love architectual looks but am also short so appreciate the tip on folding the wings in. I still like sewing and wearing what I am drawn to even if it's not my best look. Perhaps a darker fabric in a softer fabric might work on me? Will have to give it a go. Kay
ReplyDeleteReally cool pattern and make. This pattern is on my list to purchase and create :) Mary
ReplyDeleteHi Fran, I was so happy to see that you posted a blog (though long ago) about this pattern. I am in the process of making it with muslin first and I have a question about the A1 piece. I don't know if I am suppose to line up the three circles, or all of the circles on that extension edge. I have never seen a pattern like this, but like you, I love the architectural design. Thank you for your help.
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