What's On My Cutting Table...

I've had a pretty productive week of sewing and it has been all over the board in terms of projects. First up is something for my Grandnephew. My sister and her husband are off to visit their grandson tomorrow and I wanted to send a little something for him. Not wanting to take the chance (oops, done that before!) of getting books he already had, I decided to do something completely handmade and settled on a storage bag. Who doesn't need something for their crayons, pencils, or any other small items that need to be stashed? The fabric I already had so it was just a question of designing an embroidery to stitch. Voila!

Next up was pajama pants for me. I'm only 5'2" and it is so frustrating to find pajama pants that don't need 5-10 inches taken off the bottom. I had a hard time finding a pattern. After buying one on line and making a muslin in two different sizes that didn't fit, I tried one last time with a Sewing Workshop pant pattern. I used the Ikina pant and cut a medium through the body but a large for the rise. I could easily have added even more to the rise for comfortable sleeping. But here they are.

My third project this week was bookmarks. I decided to skip doing a page this week for the Stitch Book but I still wanted to do some slow sewing and the result is below. Everyone needs a bookmark, right?

It has been warm this week in New Hampshire and we are finally starting to get rid of some of the mountains of snow we had in February. I will be happy to see Spring come this year. Til the next time...

More Pages for the 100 Day Stitch Challenge

I just wanted to share a few more pages from my stitching challenge. I've completed nine pages now but I've taken a break the last few days. I'm sure I'll do more, but less sure that I want to continue finishing a design every five days. I've thrown in some other sewing so I'm spread a little thin.  

This first design is a Hamsa, a charm or amulet, if you will. I think there are a number of cultures that use something similar. Often one of the symbols included is an eye and it is symbolic of warding off the evil eye. When the Hamsa faces down as mine does, rather than up, it is more symbolic of bestowing a blessing. I have chosen to have a pomegranate as my center rather than an eye. There are many other symbols and embellishments that can be included but I have kept my design pretty simple.

This next page is symbolic of the mountains at our little place up in Lincoln, NH. In an earlier post I had done a page representing the Pemigewasset River that flows outside our house and here are the mountains. I've included some stamping for the background trees. 

This last page was done in response to a prompt in the challenge. The prompt was symmetry. My interpretation is pretty simple and self explanatory.

Since I've haven't done much hand stitching and definitely have not started with a blank slate and tried to create something, I've found it interesting and quite rewarding. I've also done some research to see what some very notable slow stitchers do and have been in awe of what they create. I'll share some of my favorites in another post. The whole study of slow stitching has also opened my eyes a bit to things like visible mending and the whole sustainability movement. Some of the visible mending out there is quite beautiful as well. I am so enjoying this new journey!

Til the next time....

Loes Hinse Gore Skirt Revisited

It has been at the very least ten years since I last sewed this skirt.  I'm not even certain the pattern is sold any more - I couldn't easily find a website for Loes Hinse any longer. But I still own several of her patterns. This is Loes Hinse Gore Skirt which comes in several variations, with or without godets. I chose to do the four godet skirt and have tried to give a close up of the inserts, but it's difficult with black on black. 

I made it in a stable knit, lighter weight than a ponte.  This skirt is beautifully drafted. The godets go in like a dream. I stitched on my machine first and then serged the edges. Everything fits like a puzzle. The top of the skirt is done with 1" elastic. I had to take about five inches off the length of the pattern as I'm only 5'2" and it was way too long otherwise. I made it up in medium and am thrilled with the result. It's not so easy finding quality skirts these days and I'm much more comfortable in a skirt than pants. I'll be making it in a lighter weight for the summer.

 

One Very Free Elephant

I'm continuing with the Ann Wood 100 Day Stitch Challenge and I am actually very surprised that I've stuck it out this long. I have always loved slow stitch but never done it. I also tend to be quite rigid and don't particularly like staring at a blank page. But here I am coming up on forty days. 

I love elephants and I love the moon so I thought I would combine the two in one of my pages. My first stab at drafting the composition is below.

So many of the striking elephant drawings have the elephant decked out in rich fabrics across his back and on his head and around his ankles. I had a beautiful piece of brocade that was a perfect match. However, I asked a very young family member if she liked it with or without the blanket. After a considerable time thinking, her response was, 'It depends, is your elephant free or in captivity?'

Naturally I was horrified to think I would be responsible for a captive elephant, so here is my finished page - one very free elephant!

 

New Stitch Book Page - Loss

 I lost a younger sister and brother over the past eighteen months so on one of my slow stitch pages I wanted to reflect grief. I've taken a heart and torn it (the way a mourner's ribbon is torn rather than cut. I then placed the heart together with mesh to represent that, although it may be mended, it will not be whole again. In the bottom left I've stitched a triskelion, or triple spiral. In Celtic it can represent birth, death, and rebirth. 

100 Day Stitch Book

 This year I decided that I wanted to try more hand stitching, and I wanted it to be random rather than purchasing a scene and following explicit directions. It is a big departure for me since I am a garment and home dec sewer primarily. I  never think of myself as being creative in the artsy sense but I really want to explore that side.

I have followed Ann Wood Handmade for a while now and each year she invites sewers to do a 100 Day Stitch Book. The goal is to stitch for 15 minutes a day, certainly more if you are so inclined. And, she encourages you to just start without a lot of expectations of where to go, rather pursue a sort of stream of consciousness with your thread. Of course, she does encourage you to be prepared with your pages cut and your threads and fabric pieces chosen ahead. 

So, I have dived in. I have a theme in mind, though I may stray. I want to have my pages reflect home and family and things that are important in my life. For my first page I decided to stitch a sort of representation of the Pemigewasset River outside our condo in Lincoln. For the river I used a handmade paper (not by me) and I softened it by kneading it with my hands oiled a bit with coconut oil. The paper has holes in it which, in my mind, represent the river rocks. I decided to add the tree, stamped in ink, and stitched just a  bit. 

I'm not sure I'll do a book with it. I may just have some of them hanging around my studio space so I have backed my piece and joined them with the blanket stitch. The linen in the piece is a piece of old French linen, so it is very slubby. I'm not unhappy with my first try.

February on the Pemigewasset - View From My Window

 

Pillows!

I haven't used the embroidery attachment to my machine in so long, I was afraid I was getting rusty. Below are two pillow I did for Christmas. The first, St. Nicholas, embroidered on vintage French linen, was a hostess gift for a special sister who hosted Christmas this year. The back is a soft velvet with one of my favorite hidden zipper applications. 

The "Jack" pillow is for a grand nephew. The embroidery combines designs from Hatched in Africa, their African Jewels collection. 

I very seldom follow recommendations for thread, I use whatever I have at hand that appeals to me, though I did stick to all rayon for St. Nicholas. On children's pillows, I like to use regular cotton thread since it is likely to get washed and dried, and I think it stands up better to wear and tear.  

Where Have All The Bloggers Gone?

 I got away from my sewing blog during a busy time in my life and when I came back, sadly I couldn't find many of the sewing and other creative blogs I used to follow. I have noticed lately that many of them have moved over to Instagram which I understand, but it makes me sad. I find Instagram reminds me of little, fast-moving sound bites, unlike the blogs which felt like a community that you could visit with over a cup of coffee. I've decided to try to come back to blogging and find others of like mind. I need a break from the fast lane! 

Another thing I have noticed is that when I want to look at one of the blogs I used to follow, I am forced to click on a redirect to get there. Anyone know if there's a solution to that. I've tried to find answers on the internet but haven't yet been successful.

Peace

Cutting Lines Light and Shadow

This pattern is such an oldie! I've made it a couple of times, this time in a double face fabric (from Quilted Threads, which sadly has closed). I thought that between the top and the matching scarf it showcased the fabric nicely. Since then, I've actually cut up the front and hemmed each cut side and used it as a jacket! I'll try to post a picture of what it looks like net time I wear it. 

 

Brindle & Twig T Shirt Dress

 I've always shied away from sewing with knits but with four grandchildren it is almost impossible to sew and not include knits at least once in a while. Brindle and Twig has some of the most wonderful patterns for children and I have found them to be so well drafted and their instructions meticulously written. Additionally they have a website with tutorials. 

Below is their T Shirt dress made for my 6 and 8 year old granddaughters. This is the second time I've made this pattern. It is asymmetrical, with the back longer than the front. The pattern has looked good on them as toddlers and now as bigger girls. They've always worn it with coordinating leggings making it warm and comfortable.  A real keeper.  

The fabric is from Quilted Threads in Henniker, NH, which sadly closed this fall after many years due to retirement. A real treasure of a shop that is sorely missed!

Blogger Redirects

 I have fallen off both posting and following on my blog but would like to become more active again. One of the things I have noticed is that each time I want to read a new post by someone I am following, I get a redirect message and I need to click a link to get to their new post. I am assuming this is a problem that has been around for a while, but is new to me. Does anyone have a solution for it?

Many thanks,

Fran

Patricia Rose Dress by Style Arc!

I have had this fabric for years. I found the silk yardage in an antique store. There were several yards, but it was quite narrow. I pulled it out last week when I saw some photos of the Patricia Rose dress by Style Arc. The dress looked perfect for summer. It was loose fitting, no zippers, no buttonholes. Although the pattern comes with three quarter sleeves, a lot of people had made it as a sleeveless dress, simply binding the sleeves.

I love StyleArc patterns but have not made many of them. I did notice that instructions were minimal. There was nothing about staystitching the neckline. Because my fabric was so thin, I staystitched back and front necklines on both the dress and the facings. I also thought it ran short, for me. I am only 5'2" and it finished at the length shown. I had to add a hem facing in order for it not to be too short. I will make the length adjustment before I sew it again.

I made a muslin first and the size 12 fit perfectly with no alterations.  Very happy with the finished product. But in this Covid year, there is no where to go!

Off The Rails Baby Quilt

This is my second time making a baby quilt based on the Off The Rails pattern by Charlotte Jeffery Abt. This one is done with a jelly roll called Woodland Secrets by Shannon Gillman Orr for Moda Fabrics. Making it with a jelly roll cuts down substantially on the cutting and assures that the fabrics all have similar color ways. Both times I've made it with 6 squares across and 7 squares down, a nice size for putting on the floor for tummy time.

One of the hardest parts in all this for me, is not the sewing, but trying to decide on placement of the squares. I lay them down on a table and rearrange over and over again until I'm happy with the result. I find that taking pictures is very helpful and making choices from the pictures. Somehow taking that step back and looking at it in a photo helps with the perspective. 

Once assembled, I quilted it with a walking foot, doing straight lines, about 1/2 inch apart. I like the contemporary look of straight lines. I know it's not for everyone. I also like my binding to have a graphic feel to it, either dots or stripes, if possible. Fun project. I made a similar one for my grandson and it washed and dried well, many times over.  

If you are looking for guidance on quilting with a walking foot, there is a wonderful book by Jacquie Gering, called Walk, Master Machine Quilting with Your Walking Foot. I highly recommend it.

Liberty Shirt - Tried and True Pattern

I have made the Liberty Shirt from Sewing Workshop at least four times and I have never been disappointed. The finished product is, I think, much nicer than one would guess from the pattern picture. It is a beautifully drafted pattern with lots of teaching moments and lots of hints (such as having card stock cut in certain widths to use when ironing up hems). The precision of the sewing is important here and adds to the look of the finished piece. But you are well guided with the instructions so that the precision is easy to nail.

An example is here, where instructions are given for an uneven miter. If you do all your pressing and measuring just right, you are rewarded, below.

 

I made this shirt/jacket in a linen cross dye from Quilted Threads in Henniker, NH. I interfaced the collar and the front and back facings. Once finished, I thought the collar and back facing buckled just a little and I wish I had used something much lighter, maybe even organza rather than the iron on that I did use. 

I haven't done buttonholes and buttons yet since, in these Covid times, I am not shopping and I will have to search on line for just the right button. But, honestly, I may go without and just use the front as a place to highlight a special pin. 

 

I love the asymmetry, the details, and the easy fit. I didn't grab a picture of the sleeve, but it is bracelet length and has a vented opening.

Haven't gotten tired of it yet, and I've actually had to retire a couple of my previous versions since they were made so long ago and were worn so often that they just wore out! So, this will probably be made again. I did notice that I had to tape my pattern instructions where the folds were, which is a good indicator of a much loved pattern!

Tuffets!

While I may not have been doing much garment sewing lately, I have been catching up on some promised home dec items. These tuffets are for two granddaughters and are made with patterns from The Tuffet Source. They can be done with any size strips of fabric. The top one is 32 strips and the bottom one 64 strips. You can order the pattern and kits from the Tuffet Source. The kits contain the foam cushion, the button, and the base. They can be ordered with or without feet. The kits are pricey - you can come up with a much more cost effective hassock or tuffet, but they are pretty adorable!

New Threads From Brindle & Twig Tee

These new outfits for 3 year old and 1 year old granddaughters are from Brindle and Twig.  The T-Shirt Dress and the Baby Leggings are made from some lovely jersey purchased at Quilted Threads in Henniker, NH.  The patterns are downloadable, but you are able to choose which size to download which saves a great deal on loads of unnecessary paper!  They are well drafted and go together beautifully. One word of caution, since the dress pulls over the head, is to make sure your jersey has enough stretch to it.

All seams were done on a serger and the hems were done on a cover stitch machine, with the exception of the hem on the leggings, which was such a tiny circle, that I simply sewed it on a standard sewing machine.

Very cute and comfortable on - would definitely make them again!

GRAINLINE HADLEY TOP - FIRST EXPERIENCE

After my experience with the Willow Tank and Dress, I was anxious to try the Hadley Top.  It has two variations, sleeveless and long sleeve, jewel neck or V neck. The sleeveless top has facings for the armhole, neckline, and hem. One back version has an inverted pleat design element. The bottom is curved so it is shorter in the front than in the back.

I did my first draft as a wearable muslin using some very lightweight lawn which, although I loved, has sat idle on my shelf for a couple of years.  I chose the sleeveless, V neck version.  Many people had commented that the neckline was low, so I went ahead and raised it by 3/4 inch.  Because of the pattern design, I was unsure how to raise it. I contacted Grainline, but wasn't really happy with their answer, so this is how I did it.

As you can see, there is a notch for the seam allowance, which threw me a bit. I drew a line perpendicular to the grainline. Then I cut across this horizontal line, up the grainline, and stopped just short of the shoulder, leaving the piece attached. I then took the neckline section, which was slightly detached, and pinched up the required amount (3/4  " in my case). I then moved it back in and taped it, and inserted pattern paper to fill in the 3/4 " I pinched out above.  I did this so that the shoulder would stay intact and the V would be undisturbed since it has a very nice curved shape, see below.

But, once I was finished, the neckline is really the only thing I loved. I used the interfaced armhole facings as directed. But, with such very thin fabric, a 2" interfaced facing was overkill and just made the armhole very 'bunchy'. I probably should have anticipated that. So, in the future with a fabric like this, I would use simple self made binding.

My next disappointment is that the dart seemed to fall too high which I thought was odd because it did not on the Willow Tank. I haven't yet compared patterns, but I don't know why that would be the case with the same pattern company.  Also, the front really ends up quite short, not a  look that is good on me.  So this one will be strictly a learning experience before it is tossed.

Would I make it again? Yes, I think it has some nice possibilities. I would take advantage of its structural elements by using a heavier fabric. I would add length all around so the front doesn't end so short. I would also go up to a size 12 even though the finished measurements are larger than the Willow Tank. It just looked skimpy.

By the way, if you are a V neck fan, as I am, another wonderful V neck pattern is the shell in Loes Hinse' Sweater Set. Scroll down to look at the shell. Really lovely - also center seam, like the Hadley. It does not use facings, just gets turned under. And, even though it it made for a knit, I have made it in a woven, and it works just fine.

Some days are just learning experiences. Unfortunately, I wanted another sleeveless top for my trip!

Grainline Studio Willow Dress and Shell

I had said in an earlier post that I had too much stuff! However, at the same time, I did not seem to have what I need! I am trying to be more judicious both in my pattern and fabric purchases. I also needed some things for vacation in Florida and my preference, in hot weather, is dresses and skirts. 

I have been intrigued by some of Grainline Studio's patterns. They are getting posted a lot on Pinterest and they are modern and breezy. I purchased their Willow pattern which has a Tank or Shell variation and a Dress.  It's available as a PDF download or a paper pattern and I chose the paper pattern.  This is a very roomy pattern so I cut a size I normally would not. So in addition to looking at the sizing, make sure you look at the finished measurements so you can judge just how much ease you want.  I absolutely love when pattern companies include finished measurements!

I cut a 10 on top based on my bust size and increased it to a 12 through the hips and straight through to the hem.  Normally, I would cut a much larger size through the hips. Oddly, even though I cut the appropriate bust size, I think there is a tiny wrinkle across the bust. It doesn't feel tight and there is plenty of room in the armhole, so in the future, I may just move the pattern a tiny bit away from the fold, rather than going up to a 12 which would be too big.  There are darts at the bust, and they seem to hit me in the right spot. 

 

This is a very simple pattern, front and back of the bodice and the skirt are cut on the fold. When they are attached, there is an interesting fold that is built in which, I think, adds a lot. I put four buttons across the fold. 

The neckline and armholes are finished with self made bias.  I find it a bit fiddly - I'd rather work with facings, but that's just me!

 

The fabric is by Robert Kaufman and is called Linen Malibu.  It is a cross-dye, 55% linen and 45% cotton, purchased from Portsmouth Fabric Company. 

After finishing the dress, I made the pattern in the tank/shell, using the same sizing and a very light weight lawn fabric.  All in all, I like the pattern. I'd like to try to get rid of the tiny wrinkle which looks, but doesn't feel like pulling.  Again, I may just try to give a bit more room in the top, without going up a whole size.

Slan

CYNTHIA GUFFEY, REST IN PEACE

I was very sad to learn today that Cynthia Guffey passed away in January.  The Worcester Sew and Quilt Expo is taking place in September and I searched Cynthia's name to see if she was teaching at it.  I came across her obituary instead.  She was only 67 years old.

I had the chance to take classes with her on two separate occasions.  She was a magnificent dressmaker, a wonderful teacher, and one of the funniest people I've met, in a very charming, southern way.  She wrote many patterns for elegant jackets, dresses, and skirts.  I made one of her jackets years ago and it was a work of love -- lots of handstitching, a lining that was whipstitched in by hand.  Everything fit together like a puzzle and the result is one of the pieces I'm most proud of, although not the best picture. I love the detail in the belt that slides through a slit in the band.  Those were the kinds of details she was known for.

Cynthia also wrote a number of sewing books, small paperback books, written by hand, with illustrations by her.  She didn't own a serger; she was a believer in hand overcasting, understitching by hand, and all those lovely couture techniques. 

I am sorry not to study with her again, but very grateful that I had the opportunity.  She was one of a kind!